THE MOST ANCIENT MONASTERY OF BANGKOK.
THE MOST ANCIENT MONASTERY OF BANGKOK.
One day from a life of Buddhist monastery Vat On.
Archimandrite Avgustin (Nikitin).
The TOURIST from Russia now the frequent visitor in Bangkok, and Russian speech here
You will surprise nobody. She can be heard constantly in trading quarters - there,
Where "new Russian" do "shopping". Within the limits of the cultural program
"Shuttles" can bring in the Big royal palace where to them will show also
Monastery (vat) Pra Keo with a world famous temple of the Emerald Buddha. And
Then - short rest in resort small town Pattaya where conversations go about
Forthcoming flying away home and about problems "rastamozhivanija".
The western tourists are free from similar difficulties: the normal European
Earns at home, and spends abroad. But also at them rigid frameworks:
Early in the morning a breakfast in hotel then bus round on a city begins.
For a day it is necessary to visit some sights.
Monastery CHetupon (Vat On) - one of "points" where the tourist last
Buses. Monastery survey is rather short. And meanwhile it is the most ancient
The monastery of the Thai capital based by the king by the Frame I on the left coast
The rivers Chao Praia about 200 years ago. In this Buddhist monastery in comparison with
Other capital monasteries the biggest number of cult constructions.
Here them about hundred. Vat On is famous also for the greatest vehanami (temples).
Here is better to come early in the morning when Buddhist monks are flown down in
The monastery with donations. Vat On it is located rather successfully: just
Through road market numbers last and each dealer willingly gives naselniku
It is a little meal. Vat On is famous for the learning: this monastery of the first has opened
The gate for education of laymen. Today the such here prosper
Disciplines, as the literature, music, medicine, archeology, and Vat On sometimes
Name the first Thai university. But it is data from the guidebook,
And how all is actually? For this purpose it is necessary to visit a monastery, that
Quite probably: to foreigners (farangam) the input is resolved from 8 o'clock in the morning to 5
O'clock in the evening. So here it is possible to spend all the day and to observe for
Monastery life.
At a monastic gate the turnstile is arranged: the gatekeeper raises for an input 10
bat (approximately half-dollar), and visitors do not grumble. After all since 1987 here
Restoration jobs by total cost in 53 million bat are conducted. (In
Thailand there is not enough inflation, so this figure for last years almost
Has grown.).
Visitors are involved with a building which is standing nearby from an input, is
The astrological centre. The astrologist considers in a line magnifier on a palm
The German tourist of whom solid payment "does not confuse the long-term
The forecast "- 16 dollars. The time sits down by other prophet
The girlfriend faranga - young tajka. It works "escorts-girls" - accompanies
On capital of the well-founded tourist so why not to glance in the
The future at his expense?.
Here one more kind okolomonastyrskogo service. In a monastery court yard -
One-storeyed constructions in which practise the traditional Thai
Massage. Here parents observe, how their small daughter the masseur
Undresses as a chop. The rate is hung out also: for "dribbling" half an hour
- 100 bat.
The Sunday school for children is nearby arranged. Some tens
Girls sit in a shade under a canopy and listen to manuals of the young monk,
Which that says in a microphone. The sound is boomingly unrolled on gallery,
Decorated with set of the gilt statues of the Buddha.
However it is time to visit the main temple (vehan). Here there is a huge
Statue of the laying Buddha in length of 46 metres and 15 metres in height. Just in it
Time cease molitvoslovija monastic brotherhood, and farangi, having removed footwear,
Can enter under the arches vehana. To see a head of the Buddha, it is necessary to throw back
The, and only then it is possible to estimate a grandiose plan of sculptors. A statue,
Shining with gilding, occupies almost all space vehana, leaving
To visitors narrow pass round it. To a statue close not to approach: first,
It is on a high pedestal, and secondly, the bed of the Buddha is enclosed
Wooden lattice along which stalls with a wide choice last
Religious souvenirs.
And here one more kind of donations: believers buy the small at an input
The most thin leaflets of a gold foil also paste them on the figure of the Buddha standing
At bottom of an enormous statue. Only having come to be "in feet" Buddhas, it is possible
To estimate scope with what this huge sculpture is executed. Following around
Statues, it is possible to see set of smoked fragrant sticks. Here burn
Candles.
In vehane sounds any "a metal thaw" are heard. At feet of the Buddha all
It is found out: here too accept donations, but in the original form.
Pilgrims buy a flat dish up to the top filled with small yellow coins on
25 satangov. (In 1 bate - 100 satangov.) then Buddhists pass along a wall
Also throw on one coin in metal cups, and such cups here
Some tens are established. Here whence a sound of a metal rain,
Welcoming visitors at an input in vehan. There pass 10-15 sacrificers, and
The door-keeper empties cups: coins are strewed by a stream to a bucket, and therefrom
Again in flat dishes.
And on a monastic court yard one events are replaced by others. Against a garden with
Dwarfish trees some girls with huge drums practise
In cult rhythms under the guidance of the strict instructor. For the others
Children lessons are finished, and they have already dinner nearby open-air. Them
The place behind school desks was occupied with adult women, and the same monk in orange chivone
(Toga) teaches them through a microphone.
To visit the second vehan, it is necessary to pass through the small
The court yard decorated with tiny Chinese pagodas. The input is protected by two
Stone dragon. A heat in a heat, and that they have not overheated, someone's
The careful hand has covered their big burdocks. On a neck at everyone "drakoshi"
Coquettish bows: careful leaving and influence "jan" - female is felt
The beginnings. As to the man's beginning - "in" it is shown in
Restorations of statues of the Buddha. Young umeltsy update gilding, establish
Round statues transparent protections - protection against external influences. And there,
Where plastic partitions still are not present, statues of the Buddha are closed by the usual
Polyethylene.
In general here like all to wind, wrap up, wrap up. Sacred
The tree which has grown from a shank "bo" under which tsarevitch Gautama has reached
"Enlightenments", it is tied by an orange matter. The tree trunk is similar on
The Buddhist monk who has motionlessly fallen asleep in meditation. And cats here the expert
- Not simply red, and saffron-yellow, as if small fluffy novices. In
To garden butterflies - too orange fly.
Having removed footwear, we rise on steps in vehan, under which arches
The gilt Buddha sits. Certainly, in comparison with the laying Buddha this
The statue is insignificant. But it is uplifted on inaccessible height and makes
The big impression. Local gatekeepers are good-natured: to tourists here
Expanse. Flash blitsy, group, having turned a back to a statue,
It is photographed on its background. (And after all in next - royal monastery Vat
Pra Keo, there, where the Emerald Buddha, usages more strict sits. On
The inscription boards, forbidding to photograph, and are there and then attached someone's
The withdrawn and lighted films.).
In general in Vat On liberal usages; on both parties from a throne of the Buddha -
The floor hours made in the last century in Paris; there and then fans,
Microphones and other signs of the XX-th century. In a temple girls-students pray in
Jeans, and at some - for a special glamour - on tear knees. And the Buddha
Stately looks at them from above.
Nearby to a temple - a bench of Buddhist antiquities. However the European
Tourists in confusion. After all according to local customs rules export from
Thailand of figurines and other images of the Buddha (even modern job)
It is forbidden. The exception becomes in the event that you buy figurines with
The educational and religious purposes, but for this purpose it is necessary to have
Corresponding paper. However in a bench a wide choice: there are even dolls on
Strings are traditional characters of Thai theatre of puppets. There and then
To the visitor will offer images of heroes of the Thai epos, executed on silk.
The stream of bus pilgrims has subsided, and the monastery has begun to live the usual
Life. There comes rest time. Monastic turtles get out of a pond on
Specially arranged for them plotiki and hrumkajut greens. Novices
Put the big umbrellas and bear them in a premise at a temple, there
Send padded stools and carpets. The sun has a seat, and visitors should follow to
To exit. But today it is a little foreigners, and on them as though do not turn
Attention. So it is possible poprisutstvovat also on "an informal part".
City noise is not audible almost behind monastery walls. Silently ring
Hand bells to which uvulas are attached, as if sails, small
Plates, koleblemye a wind. Cats, during heat time sleeping in a shade,
Have quickened. Among them few Siamese are usual, habitual to ours
To eye of "mongrel". Here they peacefully get on with dogs whom it is constant
Turn underfoot pilgrims. Unlike cats they are fussy and are not able
"A tax of". The novice, absolutely the boy, has incurred somewhere with a business kind
Puppy. Another inok - the teenager with a yellow linen bag through a shoulder
It is carried by on a monastery court yard on a moped. The gatekeeper dozes at steps
Temple also does not pay attention to an event.
Here one more sketch: at a lateral wall of a temple, far away from strangers
Eye, the children's playground is arranged: a swing, a hill, wooden parovozik with
Carriage. Between young novices there is a playful struggle for a place on
Swing. To hesitate there is nobody - around the. However, it it is no wonder: after all
Laymen too have arranged entertainment in a monastic court yard. Here is
Basketball and volleyball platforms where passions with might and main boil. For
Tourists unusually only one: players in volleyball beat on the bamboo
To wattled ball feet and a head - its hand to concern it is forbidden. Group
Teenagers there and then is engaged in aerobics, and elderly taets hardly aside
Fulfils receptions of fight with the imagined opponent.
On a platform near the temple occurs in general the inconceivable: the variety
The eminence is filled by drums, gongs and the xylophones executed in a kind
Magnificent river galleys. Through dynamics sounds of Thai national songs flow
In modern arrangement.
The Thai monastery (vat) usually consists of two parts - temple and
Vein. Vat On it is arranged rather typically. Having passed through a very narrow small street,
Visitors appear in an inhabited part cotton wool. Here equal numbers last
Two-storeyed small houses. On the second floor the ladder conducts directly from an alley. On
Handrail simple monastic vestments - chiveny - pieces orange dry
Matters which is wound round a trunk like a toga.
The limousine slowly approaches on separately standing building with the smoky
Glasses. The car leaves the elderly monk and disappears behind a fencing. At an input
Inscription on-tajski, informing, what is it the house of the deputy of a monastery. Nearby that
Inscription in English. Transfer looks funny enough: "Residence
The abbey ".
Two girls stride between small houses, in hands at them a basket with
Gifts for monks. Here they walk upstairs on the second floor and,
Not entering in a cell, with bow hand over naselniku a basket. In it -
Tea pack, rice, soap and other subjects necessary in use.
At an input in monastic small town the young monk talks to parents,
Which have arrived here by the car to visit the son. In tradition of the Thai
The Buddhism the monkhood can be accepted only for a while. (There is a custom, on
To which everyone taets should stay in a monastery not less than 7 days for the
Life.) speaking to the modern language, it something like army gathering.
Only here are improved not in art to kill, and in love to the near.
Before an impact of a modern civilisation tajtsy try to protect the
Cultural (and cult) values. Tradition of time stay in
Monasteries - one of forms of this movement. And it is not casual, that between
Monastery and monastic small town the building of institute oratorical has put
Arts before which it is possible to see the poster with the image remains with
Combined ladoshkami and the signature: "We should be proud of Thai culture".
. At last last foreigners leave monastery territory. And on
To monastic scene last preparations come to an end. A concert will be
To listen only to the. A turret decorating an input-exit, in garlands from
Bulbs. They, apparently, blink in a step of the melody reaching because of
Monastic walls. However, to be surprised it is not necessary: after all at tajtsev
Cult and cultural traditions are closely bound among themselves. And
Acknowledgement to that is the day spent in Buddhist monastery Vat On.
//* an information Source: the Independent newspaper, 1.09.99
//* Reg. Nom. - 1090900004.10-------------------------------------------
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