Ruddy city.
Ruddy city.
Ostashkov since times of writer Sleptsova has a little changed. And after all
Has passed more centuries.
"Know, what me all has more amazed in a city exterior?
Poverty... It at all that dirty, beggarly, swinish
Poverty, kotoroju our district cities mostly differ,
- The poverty boring you both despondency and responding the black
Bread and cockroaches; this poverty any especial,
The reddened poverty similar to the beggar in a new waistcoat and
Reminding to you perfectly cleaned boot with a hole ". So
Melancholically wrote in 1862 V.A.Sleptsov to the "Letters about
Ostashkov ", published in nekrasovskom"Contemporary". Then
Here there was a theatre and library, carriers read Duma, and smiths
Chorus sang hymns. Today too write about Ostashkov as about
Cultural city. First of all about musical summer "Seliger
Evenings ". About desert Nilovoj restoration. About a pyramid from
Fibreglass that should influence the neighbouring to the best
Inhabitants and ecology; however, to drink in the nearest village Chitin, alas,
While did not become less.
Arrival.
BLIND MEN in first "letter" complains, that hotels in a city
No. Time has turned back: today unique in a city
Hotel "Seliger" as stays idle three years: communications
Have come to full worthlessness. Here a subtlety of our time: this
Municipal hotel of the power for a long time have sold any
To businessmen, those is whether have resold, whether have lost in
Maps, and its present accessory is foggy. This five-floor
The barrack with a concrete peak over a wide porch is no time coquettishly
Cast golubenkoj a paint, winked pink curtains, and
Now obsharpalsja, all in rusty potekah, as if on it from above
Have poured out a tub of slops. So the majority ostashkovskih looks
Structures behind an exception unless "Savings Bank" buildings.
Present: day tends to early darkness, the first is twisted
The drifting snow, impulses flies a wind, you face to the locked
Hotel in which hoped to take a hot shower, and to move to you
The equal bill there is no place. Attempts to come into contact to the local
Inhabitants continually come to an end failure: passers-by are frightened,
Strive prjanut aside, but, having comprehended, that you do not ask from them
Money, begin to search for the answer to your inquiries painfully.
In total are more remarkable on their persons of reflexion of attempts to make
Cogitative topographical effort, as a rule, coming to an end
Defeat. However, sooner or later any woman in a torn fur-coat
Remembers, that "there are rooms on road service station".
Movement.
The DRIFTING SNOW turns in the meantime naturally to a blizzard, a frost
Under twenty, business to five, and, looking around in searches though
Taxi which here, certainly, it is not got, you notice
Improbable picture: from all corners in valenoks with galoshes,
Padded jackets and caps with ear-flaps people - go on snow roadways on
Bicycles. Some bicycles are equipped by the grocery
By bags in front at a wheel, at others to a frame are tied up any
Poles.
Directly before hotel - a bus stop, on which
Has crowded fifty persons. Clearly, that the bus in streets
Cities - a rarity. To me carries, the gloomy person of the Caucasian exterior
Agrees to throw me for a tchervonets on autostation. There is no time,
In cheerful Soviet times for the areas before road service station
The crowd of carriers with the "zhiguljami" waited goers,
There-here buses of local lines, and behind station grandly scurried about
Radiated with diesel engines "ikarusy". Now all as has died out. The area with
Sculpture of Konstantin Zaslonova sticking out in the middle of a naked bed
It is empty, in the premise obshmygannogo cold station on benches
The dark women who have been rolled up in scarfs, muzhiks in sheepskin coats sit,
Wrapped up children on bags. Clearly, that they wait long and know, that
It is necessary to wait even longer.
At one sight at the schedule much clears up. In many
The ends of area buses do not go at all, and to reach there now
Not particularly as. The Same and with the distant message: to Moscow of buses
More is not present, in the regional centre Tver - on two in day with stops
Only in two districts. It means, that in many villages on
To line Ostashkov - Tver to get public transport
It is impossible. To that the poster for the motorists, saying is visible,
That in the next area the bridge has fallen off, and, if to know, that on
Other coast of Volga there the one and only road, it is possible to shudder
At thought that waits for inhabitants of the right coast in this winter.
To finish a transport subject, say, as personal
The motor-vehicle pool in a city is not rich. However, from time to time from a blizzard
Jump out "volvo" and "saabs" that looks wildishly on local
City background. However, we will notice for objectivity, that here
Roads which, the truth, do not clean are good, but not stinting strew
Salt with sand, it is a lot of gasoline, it is a lot of benches with spare parts and two
The Azerbaijan stations of car-care centre.
Here we will quote the local newspaper "Seliger": "Despite
The most complicated time, for absence of budgetary funds for eyes
The city changes... By Tolstoy an asphalt layer one of these days it is covered
Lane Soviet... If with such speed there will be our city
horoshet and further in some years we it it is simple not
We learn ". However, to learn Ostashkov it is impossible already today.
Inn.
In the DISTANT wing of road service station on the second floor really
It is possible to find for some rooms for visitors, not baked and
Looking at empty tracks. About hot water here
slyhom did not hear. The mistress in intercepted on a breast
Cross-wise a down scarf once again has confirmed, that other
postoja in a city is not present, but, groaning, has dug out under my request
Whence izmusolennuju broshjurku - the local telephone directory.
At random I have typed number of the died hotel, and, to mine
To amazement, to me have responded (it was found out later, that this number was
It is thrown in the next commercial tent at the same time from one of
The former restaurant waitresses). And here I have learnt the improbable: at
Hotels "Seliger" are branch - on "rowing base". On mine
The question how there to reach, the disappointed mistress has confirmed,
Contradicting to itself, that really branch is somewhere for
Gagarin: to it was obvious to lose the lodger annoyingly.
"The rowing base" has appeared two wooden plastered
Mansion on the bank of lake. The driver "old rafika", employed for
The same tchervonets, has landed me before the iron trellised
Collars, tightly locked. In the heart of a court yard of stars through snowstorm
Lantern. I have found the call button. Because of a corner with bark two have jumped out
Huge sheep-dogs, behind them the muzhik in valenoks not at once has seemed,
To padded jacket, cap, with a red beard, but without a bicycle. It has unlocked
Gate, having taken for a collar torn blood-thirsty to my trousers
To bough, also has given up as a bad job - there, a pier. In the house light at the left burnt.
The woman in the sports has met me of the grenadierial sizes
Trousers and vest - on a verandah it was hot. Another, in a skirt, there and then
Moulded pelmeni. Grenadersha has gone to show apartments: here
Here one "lux", two bedrooms, a drawing room, the jacuzzi, three colour
The TV, and here the second. Here a sauna. "But to you one lux
It is not necessary, so we have and more two numbers more cheaply, for
Billiard room ". It has thrown with a fur coat, we have crossed a court yard and have entered in
The second wooden structure. A room, that have shown to me, was small,
It is cosy, too with the TV, but black-and-white. "A shower, I will tell
To stoker that now to you has warmed. And then - welcome on
Pelmeni... "Having woken up, I have recollected, that for a marvellous dream to me
Dreamt: a fantastic any inn, an old regime stoker
With a red beard a shovel, dear mistresses, pelmeni, bajki...
Through a curtain at a window low beat the sun, I have drawn aside it.
The snowfall has abated. Directly before me water not stood still darkened
Lake zatona, ashore upwards the used up bottoms one on another
Old boats laid. On the contrary - from densely driven upright
Dark crude boards a fence passing in a wall of a shed, and this wall
Left in water. And directly in water the door was opened in this wall
- The Russian Venice. I have remembered, about what yesterday spoke with
Mistresses.
Conversations.
GRENADERSHA, the refugee from Kazakhstan, was severe and fair:
In a city criminal bespredel, the militia is bought, the unemployed
Youth - addicts and morons. Who has a job? Only at
Those who at military factories, on "Beam" or on "Star", that on
Island Goromlja, the German captured built, see - there from us
The ships also go, carry fuel. Well, on a slaughterhouse in America
Sometimes pay, it is area such. On a skinnery it has been occupied
6000 persons, besides that in a city live 26000, two thirds
Have reduced, the others do not receive the salary of more year.
- My husband year and two months does not receive, - the second has specified, on
Name as it has appeared, Hope. It has appeared local povarihoj and
The laundress and all the evening long and continued to mould the pelmeni. -
In the autumn has gone on a bicycle for thirty kilometres a cranberry
To collect. While was on a bog, a bicycle from bushes have stolen. Went
Home on foot with dvadtsatikilogrammovym a bag. And on a market
Secondhand dealers to it only hundred roubles of a distance. Comes home and speaks:
Give I will better leave from you, and at us two sons-schoolboys, not
I can more so, without the salary. Also cries...
- Who main in a city? - I ask the mistress. - Azerbaijan
Gangsters. Recently here the have killed authority Mahmuda. Such
The handsome man was, and what fair; if at the grandma on a market
Purse will steal, in militia she and will not think to address, and
Will fall heavily on knees before Mahmudom, it will find and will return. Armenians
Hold only one small market, restaurant, a little
Shops. Whether there are, Russian, gangsters? As much as necessary, but these
Are not organised: in itself plunder on roads and in a city,
Force. And steal everything, but it is more on a trifle, preparations yes
Potato at the neighbour from a cellar...
Before, in sleptsovskie times, Ostashkov was famous for cancers,
snetkom and marinaded nalimami. Today cancers, as well as
nalimov, has become a little, pure water is necessary to them, but is far for
Limits of vicinities the hearing about an improbable abundance in lake walks
Eels. Partly it corresponds to the validity: the eel goes
In flocks in lake depths. Private poachers with might and main catch it on
peremety, official - networks.
- Whether there is an eel? - I ask. The mistress explains, that rybzavod
It is privatised by the mayor, the fishing artel rows in lake with a seine
Even small fry of a pike perch, that, certainly, barbarity and the same
bespredel, but the militia catches only private traders, yes occasionally the drunk
In the street, for the rest it is paid. Where put the eel? Freeze
Also send to smoke already to Baltic. Here it even at restaurants
Now is not found, only in the market at private traders covertly. Where
To have dinner in a city? Yes though in cafe "Stone wall", in the old
To prison - it now have closed on repair behind decay and, apparently,
Will make hotel for rich, those with pleasure will pay
On hundred dollars to spend the night with the woman on plank beds and at parashe.
The mistress laughs, covering with a hand a gold mouth.
We were interrupted with phone call. The answer of the mistress has guarded me:
There is here at us one Muscovite so I will ask it. And, having put
Tube: the girl long-legged, fourteen years, the schoolgirl, about
Verses is able to speak, the father drinks, mother chelnochit, well, it and
Earns additionally, speaks - only that did not fight.
I have thought, that have got precisely in the darling comfortable
Brothel. Reading my thoughts, the mistress has explained:
- Yes to us often abrupt already from Moscow in lux come: at us
Both a beach, and a water ski. And in those rooms, where you, there at them drivers
Live, protection...
In the same second day of stay I have gone to edition of the local
Newspapers. I went on Volodarsky's streets, on Uritsky and
Lunacharsky, did not leave yet on the Worker. The central streets
Left impression of yesterday's bombardment: many houses stood with
The broken roofs, with the windows hammered by rusty iron. That and
Business the people carrying on sankah dairy flasks with came across to me
Water, and even it is simple with buckets: many columns do not work, and
The people try to keep step some quarters - "on another's". In all court yard
- The big woodpiles. Coal of roads, heat everywhere only fire wood, as
Also there was it always from the city basis.
In Working street besides edition there is a city library and
The city square round which here and there stuck out is no time on
baljasinah silver ruffs. Then them have replaced with red stars,
Now it is not visible that another. Sculptures of the revolutionary have survived
The Red Army men, the beaten girl holding the broken off oar, and
Lenin, certainly. By the way, besides sculptures in a city come across and
Monumental Lenin portraits.
The editor of "Seliger" Alla Loginov has stated a sight at the local
Life distinct from a sight of the mistress of an inn. The basic
City problem - dust cleaning: municipal services work
Well, but citizens bring down the dust where popadja. "Now not
So it is visible, with a snowball has strewn lightly ". The criminality did not become more,
The truth, happen already and custom-made murders, - to me has seemed in it
Voice the concealed pride of the patriot. International relations
Equal, though on Verhnevolzhe one Azerbaijanians 20000, not
Speaking about Armenians, Chechens, gipsies. Why stand everywhere
The thrown houses? So after all all of them are declared by monuments
Architecture to sell it is impossible, to lease it is impossible. Has quickened
The Mrs. the editor, only when conversation has come about a skinnery:
The biggest in Europe. However, costs, earlier raw materials bought already in
To Argentina, in India, now the raw materials are not present. What podelyvaet youth?
Studies in the TECHNICAL TRAINING COLLEGE, in four local technical schools. And who does not study?
Trade, mediate...
Trade and leisure.
BY THE WAY, about trade. On backs of the left hotel that day -
Market. Other market opens on days off on the old, more,
To Timofeevsky street. Here again, and there "obzhornye numbers", as
Used to say in olden time, are poor enough: meat not so hot by sight,
But is three times cheaper Moscow, tvorozhok, smetanka. Turns and
There here again stand only behind one kind of the foodstuffs - for
Granulated sugar. In the same local newspaper it is possible to read, that on
Winter butter and torments will suffice, and here sugar administration tries
To get, having exchanged in the south on wood.
The basic trading market squares are occupied with dealers with all
barahlom. Here there are Finnish boots and Italian boots,
Brought from Turkey and China. However, under the similar price it is possible
To buy both woollen socks, and valenoks - local, we will hope,
Craft. Surprises another. In a market day the big market on
To perimetre it is literally arranged by cars. And a rod the pedestrian crowds -
Many with sankami. And it at arresting attention local need. Well,
In Russia is, probably, not only the double standard of riches,
When bankers one hand send billions in offshore zones,
And another ask on poverty from the government, there is also a double
The poverty standard. While I wandered on the numbers, one of torgovok,
Having got accustomed, it is visible, to my coat, has beckoned a hand: "Ugorka not
Want? "I wanted. From under a counter the oiled has been taken
Wooden tray with fish. I have selected pair of pieces on hundred roubles for
Head also has turned them in the plastic package got nearby for
Dust, having noticed in passing, that such packages here sell not
Rolls, but by the piece.
The state trade is brought almost to nothing. Here and there
The small grocery little shops carrying the proud are opened
Names: "Grant", "Russia", "Galant". In them - on one and a half ten
Vodka names, an import ham in vacuum packing and
dohlovatye oranges: kivi, avocado in Ostashkov, apparently,
Do not recognise. Through a haze before evening raznotsvetno are shone and
Play the numerous stalls named as on selection: "Olga",
"Svetlana", "Elena". And if little shops hold frequently local,
That larkovyj business in the Transcaucasian hands, whence and names:
Armenians are tender and sentimental.
It is possible to buy, in general, all - the truth, poor quality. In
The central department store, small shop about two zalchikah,
Improbable choice of the cosmetics, one man's colognes under hundred
Stamps, and among them - the famous, but time prices in four
Below Moscow and where them spilt, it is possible to guess.
In a city drinkable points and one dansing operate some -
It literally and is called, and in English, - at club
The same tanning factory. Except the mentioned youth cafe in
To prison, there is a snackbar "Neptune", a bistro "Hottabych" and restaurant
Caucasian cuisine "Ashet". On my supervision, these institutions,
Rather to local measures expensive, generally are empty. Though
Prison billiards does not stand idle. There is also a unique cinema,
Where in days of my stay the third week week lasted "
The Indian cinema ". So ostasham to miss it is not necessary,
Here in any way it is less than entertainments, than in other Russian corners.
And that to tell, towards evening on Friday on potemnelyh streets I not
Has met the uniform sober person. Most terribly looked
Drunk women of uncertain age with exhausted faces, about
Which it would be possible to tell "ikonopisnymi", kaby there were no they
Improbably enjoyed.
Temple.
The ONLY THING pleasant from all travel remains
Impression of desert Nilovoj. Here that was here during times
Sleptsova: 7 stone churches and 25 stone buildings, in which
Hotel for the pilgrims, two horse court yard, three grain barns,
Three baths, the craft case, kvasovarnja with solodovneju. Here
Cooked excellent monastic beer, and five times in a year here
There passed "a drinkable exhibition". More shortly, it was one of slavnejshih
Russian monasteries. After its ruin in 30 here have placed
Children's colony, also there are data, that for faults the prisoner
Appointed the dress soskrebat from under a dome and from walls ancient,
Four-century prescription, fresco.
Now the monastery is returned church. By the deputy it is put
84-year-old father Vassian known in a city, - it served in
Unique temple in the former Znamensky a female monastery, on
Which territories for a long time it is arranged some kind of "shanhaj",
Officially named "working settlement". In Nilovoj today live
Ten brothers. The monastery - on island Stolobensky, there conducts
The picturesque road twisted through a pine pine forest. It dives in
Any ravine, comes up in any rather comely
Village looked in a snow cover, bends around it on a village fence, and, not
Having noticed as, you drive on the narrow bridge and climb up abruptly
Upwards, appearing suddenly under monastic walls. Around on
The next islands powdered villages are seen and sjam and there,
And the monastery is uplifted over lake. Zalivchiki and creeks
Has frozen, though water on the lake still pure, and in zatone it is visible
Lonely figure of the fisherman. A landscape the most pacifying. Examining
Monastic constructions, the powerful cathedral calling in memory
Isaaky, a high belltower with a spike, huge stone blocks in
The bases of monastic walls which could not shift from a place
Any shocks, involuntarily you think of a feat of those generations, that
Extreme work created all it. And about, where this
Creative power of the people has evaporated.
In a cathedral, unique while the restored building, for
Services only lateral side-altar is restored. You meets
The announcement: "On a belltower ask you not to talk loudly, not
To run on a ladder, not to touch a bell and not to throw dust ".
Novices in podrjasnikah, and someone is simple in sweaters and jeans,
Are occupied by tireless ant work: all something somewhere bear,
Prick, beat, fit. That they should make,
Give representations huge stone profaned and dirtied
Monastic constructions. Both this sacred and tragical place seems
Stronghold of last hope.
THE INQUIRY.
Ostashkov - a district city of the Tver province on peninsula in
Southern part of lake Seliger. Time of occurrence of a city of Ostashkov
Precisely it is not known. But already in the middle of XVI century here there were the
voevody. In 1775 Ostashkov is erected in degree of a city and
It is attributed Tver namestnichestvu. Then Catherine the Great
Has confirmed the city arms - a two-headed eagle on a gold background, under it
Three silver ruffs on dark blue. Further at Brockhaus and Efron it is readable:
"A climate crude, cold and unhealthy... However a public life
In Ostashkov it is rather highly developed: many public
Institutions are based here earlier, than in any friend the district
City of Russia... The Considerable part of a city is paved still in 1830
".
NIKOLAY KLIMONTOVICH.
//* an information Source: the General newspaper, 10.12.98
//* Reg. Nom. - 1081200143.60-------------------------------------------
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