There, where the beauty sleeps.
There, where the beauty sleeps.
Why in Feropontove there are not enough tourists.
Ferapontovo near Vologda - village in four hundred court yard. It,
Probably, would know the few, if 600 years ago the monk
Ferapont, pupil Sergija Radonezhsky, has not based here a monastery.
And through 100 with superfluous years, in 1502, itself Dionisy with sons
Would not paint a monastic cathedral of Christmas of the Virgin.
FERAPONTOVO enthusiastically recollect all who there has visited. And
Lists Dionisija, both lake, and wood, and strange, as if centuries
The pressed silence. But in hotel on 36 places I have appeared
The unique lodger. To me have explained, what is it usual history.
"Notice" here happens only in a heat of summer and on holidays.
In the Museum of frescos Dionisija too it was empty. Pale blue
The temple list flickered in beams from apertures of windows. I waited for a meeting with
Museum, but at first it has been disappointed. Yes, frescos wonderful, but
Poorly exposition surroundings.
- Not all are prepared to Dionisiju. Even for experts a museum -
These are impressions on an hour-one and a half, - spoke the scientific employee
Margarita Alekseeva. - Some, having got to a cathedral, disappointedly
Ask: "Also it is all?!" Sometimes even ask to return money for
Entrance tickets...
About a museum - Borodaevsky lake. And so whence this
Surprising blue colour Dionisija: and it has got under charm
The Borodaevsky. Whether also it is necessary to begin excursions with lake,
Gradually preparing the spectator to Dionisiju?
Alas, for the majority of the tourists depending on hasty guides,
Similar possibility is not present. Here also there is for them this part
Northern Fivaidy it is simple one more route: well, the next cathedral
Have seen, well, frescos, icons and other museum utensils.
Employees of a museum dream to make many years Ferapontovo
Attractive for the most different people. How?
- Tourists after excursion on a museum need to be carried away something else.
We live in territory of national park "Russian North". In
Our forest area the governor with the visitors hunts. Here
Are found both elks, and bears, both any jumping and running trifle.
To tourists - entertainment, to local population - job. After all is
Similar examples in Kareliya. - in a museum, - picks up thought
Assistant Michael Sharomazova director Marina
Serebryakov, - a rich ethnographic collection. Here and to involve
It to business. That in village there was any one
The ethnographic house. (Not at home, and the whole ethnographic villages
Are scattered across Northern Europe.) the family living in him leaves on
Job in a museum uniform - Russian national suit and
Performs those or other seasonal jobs, using tools of the former
Times. Tourists and can join in a "former" life: them
Will learn to heat an oven, to cut fire wood, to spin it.d. Comes to an end
The working day. Employees change clothes and leave in the modern
Half of house. It will be not the Disneyland, and something absolutely another.
As a result all it would be good. But, complain in a museum, is not present for
It neither corresponding means, nor powers. And peasants
Are sluggish: they will not go through, if they lay
New footpath, and in direct, and figuratively. "In this sense
At us still a kingdom of the sleeping beauty ".
That to you it is expensive in Ferapontove and that you would show in him
To tourists? Authors of the improvised compositions on this subject -
Local schoolboys.
"I, of course, very much like a monastery, it very known,
But most of all I like roads and the nature: lakes, woods, fields
And animals ";" mushrooms do not grow In some places, berries, and at us
All grows "." And more in Ferapontove about coast very beautifully, there
Over lake of a seagull fly and shout "." Here it is possible to bathe, walk
Long, to go on fires "...
In answers of children - as a matter of fact the ready program of this most
"Promotions": tourism cultural (visiting of the museum standing "on
To the hillock "in which frescos" were saved since then when them
Drew live paints ") it should be combined with ecological -
Hunting, fishing, walks, bathings. In a word, as has written
pjatiklassnik Dima, "if I was the guide, I would show in
Ferapontove all ".
Speak, unlike hospitable children the adult local
The population not very much favours "Dionisija": to people is there is nothing, and
"They" spend money for a museum. Here do not put, there do not build -
Security zone. Tourists - "idlers" irritate also. An exit one:
That "they" have turned in "we". Tourists should become a part
The personal income ferapontovskih inhabitants, average annual (!)
Which salary of 2000 roubles.
On this note it would be possible and to leave from Ferapontova, having decided, that
Art dealers are still for a long time doomed to dream on manilovsky a harmony, if
Not... If employees have not told about one unusual
For village the reader of museum scientific library - Vladimir
Stepanoviche Burdine.
- I now am engaged in studying of history of Russia the beginnings of it
Centuries, - he tells. - recently has become interested
Questions ground stolypinskoj reforms. I compare it to that,
That at us today occurs in village. Simply surprisingly, but
Problems which were then, remained and now. And all our trouble
In that we like understand that they should be solved, and we try
To solve - and it is not solved, somehow it is finished nothing... Still
I am interested in history of our museum. Has lived all life, and plainly
I know nothing, as well as the majority of us.
About "all life" - it is told too. Having retired,
Spouses-leningradtsy were not afraid to begin a new life in the unfamiliar
Place and even have found own, though also modest business -
The tourist. Somehow to them the Muscovite has come, it was presented and
Has suggested to co-operate: to accept and to help to place
Foreigners - groups of Belgium and France. Not the usual
Foreigners, and loshadnikov, the own having in the homeland
Stables. Burdiny have decided to try. It has appeared - interestingly.
- Foreigners come twice a year, in the winter. For a supper it is done
Pelmeni. They meet them "on hurrah". Somehow on the eve of arrival in
Ferapontovo them carried in the Moscow restaurant, too on pelmeni. And
One Frenchman, having tasted ours, has exclaimed: "About! Pelmeni?! And that
We then at fur-tree restaurant? "In the morning - a breakfast: adore the semolina
Porridge with jam ("confiture"). And then all leave for five days
On in advance developed route on horses, which to it
To the moment vsoprovozhdenii the veterinary surgeon arrive from Cherepovets. In
To road stop besides in houses at grandmothers. To them are not necessary
Our hotels. Our exotic is necessary to them: a frost, parking in wood with
Pelmeni on a fire. Once any three has incurred. Frenchmen
Have fallen down in a snowdrift is there was an aerobatics: vyvaljalis in
To snow!. Come always with thermometers. Put them on
To verandah, and continually resort to look: "About! Already - 35!" And
Another "has won": at it - 38! As the cultural program
Foreigners necessarily drive in a museum: show frescos
Dionisija. It too is interesting to them.
In the summer Burdiny accept the, Russian groups of Vologda,
Cherepovets. The present business it, of course, to name difficultly:
Too seldom there come tourists. Nevertheless than not the first and
Successfully put in pawn stone in prosperity Ferapontova? It is not important, that
It, to rural measures, is put in pawn by "strangers":
- We for 100 percent the here did not become and, probably,
Never we become, - Vladimir Stepanovich admits. - Even about
The person who has lived here 20 years, as required can tell: "It
Not local ". We live the house, we communicate with with whom to us
Pleasantly and cosy. And the people here, basically, good and
The hardworking. Though also severe.
If I was the guide, I as Dima, would show in
Ferapontove all. Both a museum, and lake, and wood, and - people. Vologda
Area, village Ferapontovo.
IRINA PANTELEJ.
<$>
//* an information Source: the General newspaper, 1.07.99
//* Reg. Nom. - 1090700013.48-------------------------------------------
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