Behind a decline of the lappish sun.
Behind a decline of the lappish sun.
Finland, Lapland, native land Santa Klausa and kingdom Snow
Queens.
The logic number which for a long time has already become by a stamp, is built
Itself irrespective of a season. And let to itself it is built, in
The end of the ends, each country has the otkrytochnyj a symbol. At
Finland this.
I do not know why, but Finland has seemed to me such close,
Clear, house. Unlike is polite-cold Sweden. Can
To be from that we have crossed the Russian-Finnish border late
In the evening by the bus, sharp foreign changes have not noticed: those
Well-disposed ranks of fur-trees on road roadsides, the same sixty
Kilometres to the nearest settlement...
Fairy tale for 50 million Finnish stamps.
I stand on the Polar circle. Well and who said, that the Polar circle -
Imagined line? Descend, look, as disappears for the wood
Wall a chain equal snow penkov. Ah yes, the address - Lapland,
Rovaniemi, village Santy Klausa.
Or Jolu Bunches if to be absolutely Finns.
About village Santy-Joly it is possible to write odes. Or textbooks on
To management. It any more a fairy tale - the industry, branch
The industries if want. Would be strange to be surprised, that
Here all - from a huge log hut to a small stamp - play
The leading role in a rozhdestvensko-New Year's enchanting spectacle, which
Lasts all year long. In it, probably, also there is a fairy tale bringing
To Finns magic profits. Every year nearby a floor of one million tourists
From all world leave in village and cave Santy (in it even
Adults squeal from delight on roundabouts) on 40 million Finnish
Stamps (will soon leave millions euro). And what difference, that
Santa-Jola - the simple Finnish actor who in the evening of the house removes
The chubby dress also learns greetings on modern languages.
Now he knows Russian "welcome"...
But deer in this village the real. They were built at
Timbered izba also it is obedient waited for the goers. Goers,
There are we, dressed up in an izba in sinteponovye overalls and
Packed heads into helmets. By the way, a safari on deer openly to
The end of March.
- Well for the knave such! - kajur tries to calm down
vzbryknuvshego a deer. - you yet do not approach, I will withdraw it, is
Already to me. - well, calm down, good mine. It at us one such
Butting, other quiet, appeasable - and it is started up
To paint olene life-byte.
Fifty deer which kajury buy at saamov, live on
To spacious farm. By the way, upasi you My God to take an interest at
The Lapp: "How much at you deer?" This question you will put
saamu, measuring the riches deer deadly
The insult. Jolo Bunches, perhaps, unique to all Finland,
Who graciously allows to "count" to strangers the well-being.
And its riches well-fad, fattened on jagele and
Every possible additives. By the way, Finns already feed up for a long time and
Wild deer, because natural meal for them on the lappish
Open spaces every year ever less.
For a deer farm Santy Klausa - the eternal ticket in quiet nourishing
Free life. In which even job - in snow months to carry
sanochki with tourists - in pleasure. Here they also rejoice with mladyh
Horns and till the end of the days. And they live years fifteen. "As
Die here, on a farm? ", - pytaju kajura." Is not present, we try
Before not to lead up - we cut. Meat goes on a forage to dogs (and
Tourists there also on dogs roll - a bus), skins
We manufacture "...
We nejukljuzhe jump in sledge, and kajur sends ours oleny
Train. It is torn on a narrow track through shaggy paws of fur-trees.
On road quick oleshek with an unpronounceable name (and all
santovskim to deer give names) few times overturns sledge. Kajury
Scaredly rush to the aid, seeing, that "victims" laugh loudly
Most loudly, take breath and, smiling, apologise.
Very young bezrogy oleshek, adhered behind extreme sledge,
That studied a track, from all an event absolutely has become puzzled, in it
Huge brown eyes one was read: "When this delirium
Will end ". However, very soon he will learn to be Red-nosed
Petteri (so call main deer Santy Klausa) and will look
On all with philosophical humility.
Our train comes up from it would seem dense wood on
Automobile highway. Drivers joyfully nod and stop
Before us. And, apparently, with any melancholy envy see off
Last sledge. They take away us from wordly realities in the fantastic
Wood.
At big the plague over which the smoke is twisted, meets us the shaman with
National Lappish suit. We take seat on oleni skins
Round a fire also we listen to legends of the elegant shaman. For example, about
Volume, why at saamov caps with four corners. In them,
It appears the prankishes-winds who have done many troubles are hidden.
The shaman beats in a tambourine and gutturally sings. We are shaken, representing
At its request of these most windy hooligans. At last, it it is reliable
Has hidden wicked creatures in a cap, and they, posoprotivljavshis for decency,
Have settled.
And the shaman has removed a huge Finnish knife from a belt and crept to
To us. It dexterously and accurately "cut" something under our napes.
Has then explained, that it has relieved us of stresses, with which, on
It shamansky a sight, we, modern people, were simply
Are overflowed. In the end of a ceremony of healing the shaman has started up on a circle kuksu
(The national Finnish mug hollowed from a tree) with the present
olenim milk. And we became quiet, as tanks.
- Well here, now you become good deer, - has puzzled us
The artful shaman. - you yet do not know, that necessarily will return to
To me. However, already my deer. And that I have learnt you, now you
I will mark, - and it has got from a fire burning golovnju. We have stood. But
All has managed: the shaman has simply drawn soot on our foreheads the
Special signs. - now I with anybody will not mix you. All of you will be
My working deer. And to one of you has carried: I have put to it
The special sign, and it will be a house deer - to sleep in the house on
Feather-beds to eat the most sweet jagel and to do nothing.
Shamansky labels, certainly, were erased. But remained for memory
The passport with a print of the big finger instead of a photo. With
This document we can operate deer worldwide.
And gold wash in cafe.
- Now we go to one place where you will try the present
The Finnish meal. It that our men when come eat
Home, - intrigujushche the manager of the project winks Karri Rekilaa,
"Gate in Barents" (the joint project of tourist agencies of Finland and
Arkhangelsk "Visit" - a bus).
And here us already meets on a porch of the huge timbered
Log huts Auli Kittilja, the mistress of that place - small restaurant
"Hirsipirtti". In a hall, zastlannoj domotkannymi doormats
(Absolutely, as in our rural log huts), there is a big wattled
Basket with knitted socks.
The mistress does not ask, but we instinctively throw off boots and
We put on long socks. "About, it is yet long, my mum knitted
Here the such... "- and Auli lowers from a balcony colourful"golfs", in
Which metre ones and a half, it is not less.
In the lunch hall more reminding a huge room
Rural log hut, ubajukivajushche the fireplace crackles. On the yellow
Timbered walls family photos Auli hang: here it cooks
To woodcutters in an allotment a dinner, and from this picture in style before last
Centuries the young model - the grandmother of the mistress looks at visitors. In
To corner at the big rubber plant and a floor lamp the armchair-rocking chair is covered by a plaid.
And on top, in a penthouse - a small room, with a locker and
zastlannoj a bed. "It in case visitors cannot go
Home ", - laughs Auli.
She dreamt of such small restaurant last twenty years.
Has designed a log hut, itself went on lesosekam and chose pines,
Itself with the husband collected on the rivers stones and has combined from them a fireplace.
By the way, in a fireplace there is an oven in which Auli the salmon bakes,
Salmon and a venison. "So is more tasty", - she timidly responds on
The home appliances equipped with last achievements to kitchen. And
She works on it - since six mornings till midnight - one.
Sometimes it is helped by the spouse and when the populous is planned
Banquet Auli invites assistants (as a rule, waiters) from
The nearest restaurant. Its small business, its restaurant of dream,
The hospitable house with the soul and the keeper-house, which
Leaves the corner under Christmas.
In Finland at each restaurant the soul and if want,
Idea. In vicinities of village Santy Klausa already familiar to us
One of the most expensive in Rovaniemi restaurant "Santa Mus" works.
It is famous for that to it not to get simply so, from street - in
Him treat and amuse only the organised groups (tourists,
Arrived under the "Visit" permit, for example). But visitors generously
Are remunerated by gold.
Namyt it it is necessary in the illuminated channel small
The figured pool which has been laid out by stones in the middle of a hall. By the way, in
Pool seaweed grows and floats fat kumzhi. A sack with
Sand, an iron plate and a hat staratelja hand over all
To visitors. In each sack three grains are necessarily enclosed
Gold. But try to wash them! But it is cheerful, and you will understand,
At last, how much pound of a yellow precious metal. To me, absolutely
Hopeless zolotomojshchitse, in a second the waitress has extracted grains.
Them have lowered in a transparent oily liquid in a tiny jar
On a leather cord also have put on it a neck, as a consolatory medal.
All the others bragged of the jars-medals.
In general "Santa Mus" such interactive theatre, where one of
Co-owners and the actor, both the director, and a script writer. He plays on
To small scene over pool on kantele (Finno-Ugric shchipkovyj
The tool similar to an Old Russian psaltery) and a two-manual saw,
Sings national songs suomi, tells ancient legends.
The culmination - dessert export (all taki is restaurant): in a hall
Light dies away, the fog is filled, the sea rustles and the seagulls, two shout
The fisherman with lanterns in hands roll out a salted boat,
Forced kremankami and dessert plates. But the most important
The highlight at all is everything, and even not not operating sauna with all
Banno-soap accessories - a bedroom for mobile
Phones. In a wall at clothes the inventor-co-owner has made a niche,
Has put in them small beds with blankets, that sotovikam
It was convenient to sleep, and their owners could have a rest easy.
Still five years ago this timbered tent was
The gone to pieces cataract on an eye at village Santy administration.
It simply did not put mind what to do with an unnecessary izba,
Specially built in 1950 for visit in Rovaniemi spouses
US president Roosevelt...
Horns of the big city.
From height of bird's flight Rovaniemi it is similar on dumped in wood
Huge oleni horns. Especially beautifully it looks night, when
"Horns" are poured by millions multi-coloured bulbs. Below it -
Usual small (on 57 thousand inhabitants) the European city with
The highlight.
Any rovaniemets will begin the story about the city of that it
Walls are washed by two most beautiful in the world and the greatest in
Finland the rivers Kemijoki and Ounasjoki, and hills, thousand years
Protecting a city, last to horizon. Lapps are proud, that
Could enter a modern city in the protogenic organically
The nature. In general it is characteristic colour of Finland. Where you
Were - in luxurious hotel or in a timbered small house with
The European comfort in village of gold diggers (and to tourists
Offer also such rounds) - will feel indissoluble communication of all
It with the nature.
To you will by all means tell, that began modern Rovaniemi
8000 years ago. However, then it till 11 century was only
Parking for hunters, fishermen, gold diggers, dealers,
Transporting from the north of fur and other adventurers. To
To the beginning of 20 centuries Rovaniemi has expanded, has built up, has laid the iron
Roads both has erected bridges and became capital of Lapland. And in 1946
Began to build up anew: during 2nd world war Rovaniemi
Has been destroyed by bombing by receding Germans to last stone (then
By miracle some structures) have escaped all.
Today's shape Rovaniemi - completely a merit most
Known Finnish architect Alvara Aalto (it, as at us
TSeriteli). Especially impresses the building designed by it
Lappija-hall (theatre and a concert hall): its roof is made in shape
The polar lights which in the evenings "switch on", and it
It is poured, as the present.
In the Evangelichesko-Lutheran church constructed in 1950 to you
Will necessarily tell, that people on a huge fresco "the Source
Lives ", decorating kirhu, Lennarta Segerstrole drew from inhabitants
Rovaniemi, many of which are still live. And a beacon over one of
City bridges, the child, at all and not will explain you even a beacon, and
Monument "the Candle lesosplavshchika" which eternal fire has been lighted
In honour of all Finnish foresters.
But most of all rovaniemtsy are proud of the scientifically-museum centre
"Arktikum" which most part of structures is hidden under the earth.
But its main part, 174-metre glass gallery, as
The arrow of a compass, conducts on the north and comes to an end on the bank of the river
Symbolical collars to Arctic regions. In "Arktikume" works
The Arctic centre (scientific research institute of university of Lapland, studying
The Arctic region) and regional museum of local lore of Lapland.
To describe numerous expositions of a museum it is not represented
The possible: on ten thousand square metres all is collected, that
It is connected with the nature, a climate and bowels of Arctic regions, a life and culture
All northern people. Certainly, there is a hall devoted to history
Cities. There there is a mummy of the ancient person (probably, the first
rovaniemtsa) also it is not known as got in rovaniemskie edges
The Norwegian metal plate from a belt, which not less than thousand years.
Is the sanitary technician of the beginning of the last century and the cookbook of times
Hunger of 2nd world war. In general, everything, that though something can
To tell about history Rovaniemi, it is carefully necessary under museum
Glass.
Rovaniemi it is good at any time year. In the Winter-spring here
Come to go for a drive on mountain skiing from the most beautiful mountain
Ounasvaara. Ski lines, lifts, springboards in Rovaniemi
More than at us cinemas. In the Summer-autumn in capital Lapplandii
From all world gather to be alloyed on the rivers by boats and
Kayaks to fish and easier to breathe pure wood air.
<$>
//* an information Source: the North Truth (the Archangel.), 14.03.02
//* Reg. Nom. - 1120300008.14-------------------------------------------
|
